What we should build a house-2, or sketches for home electrical and fire - security

The second approach to homework.

TL / DR - who made repairs, will not see anything new here. He who thinks that one introductory automaton (or even a difavtomat) is quite sufficient will see only useless waste. Fire safety is expensive, rarely needed.



As the long-term practice shows, electricity is a frequent cause of a fire.

Comments to the first article showed, in my opinion, strange, the reluctance of people to use modern equipment protection schemes, both related to the control of individual power lines, and the introduction of a large and fat machine (or a typewriter) instead of them all at once, and simply related to the unwillingness to teach and demonstrate knowledge of the material part "in numbers." Well, I will write as I see it.

In general, we live in a strange time, where electricians do not know about PUE, on a seemingly technical site they write not just DNIWE about editing etc \ host, but a full DNOOOO - articles about #vnemnegapon (however, it’s just clear, I want to eat everything). So is it any wonder the explosions from the past with the words “we don’t need your typefaces, one big flat and enough”, and so electricians from the former southern republics of the USSR, against which even Evgeny, the main mining engineer and Habr, have a wrong look so bad.

Part 1. A bit of theory
Part 2. Modern materiel
Part 3. Input control and device of the modern panel
Part 4. A sad song about the sockets and the load on them
Part 5. Extinguishing systems for the home
Part 6. That's their fireboat drill. They're all boys off our boat.
Part 7. It's time to blame

Part 1. A bit of theory

Many people do not know that there is no plus and minus in the home outlet, as on an AA battery (I was surprised when I asked a couple of geopolitical and football experts) - instead of them there are:
- phase
- zero
- grounding
Without going into details of TN-S, TN-C, TN-CS and protective zoning experiments, let me just say this: electricity comes to a house in three phases, voltage ( some kind of root-mean-square from what is there - rms the voltage value in the electric network of alternating current ) between each phase and zero is 220/230 volts, between any two phases - 380/400 volts.

In the USSR, there were 220, now it seems to be gradually being transferred to 230, for unification (see GOST 29322-2014 (IEC 60038: 2009))

Moreover, in the Russian Federation there are still residues of the 127/220 system - when there is 127 volts between the phase and zero, 220 between the two phases. As a result, there are two phases in the outlet.

It happens rarely, but it was even in Moscow 10 years ago, and not at all on the outskirts, but next to one of the stations of the circular line.

It must be remembered that such a normal machine, RCD and difavtomat. A conventional automaton (modern) is two protection circuits, thermal and electromagnetic. The thermal circuit works slowly, up to hours, with a slight excess of the nominal value. For example, you have indicated that the machine is 16 amps - it can withstand 17, for a while.

What kind of time is indicated on the time-current characteristic curve, and depends on the class of the device. At the same time, it is recommended to use mainly type B for the house, except for the refrigerator and transformers, and they usually put type C.

The electromagnetic circuit is triggered when a significant excess current -

for type - B - from 3 to 5 × In;
for type - C - from 5 to 10 × In;

That is, the automatic C16 will work "instantly" at a current of 16 * 10 - approximately 160A.

You can read more about this link , for example , about the device of automata - this one .

The problem with a conventional machine is that it does not measure the incoming and outgoing current - therefore, if the phase suddenly comes from the washing machine (DO NOT DO IT, THIS IS DEATH DANGEROUS), then it is very unsuccessful to get this very electricity.
The machine does not knock out.

Therefore, to protect against such leaks, they put a RCD - a device that measures (very accurately) how much electricity has come, how much has gone (in amperes). It took less than it came - it means that there is a leak on the line, it is necessary to disconnect. BUT. BUT.

- RCD does not protect against overcurrent, i.e. from short circuit
- RCD does not protect against overvoltage, that is, from such troubles as phase imbalance and zero burning.
- The RCD itself must be protected with a smaller nominal, otherwise it will burn if it is high short circuit current
- The RCD does not protect against the flow of current through the phase-zero line, but only against leakage to ground. In general, there is no cheap way to determine whether the current flows through a biological conductor, or through a normal one. There is probably an expensive way.

The difavtomat, or automatic differential current - is 3 in one, a thermal machine plus an electromagnetic one, plus an RCD.

There is also the so-called “UZO fireproof”, and there is a legacy of the USSR — fuses and Soviet brown automatic devices for the shield and cork type (automatic threaded fuses (PAR)), but this is already a topic for history lessons - because I hope that this almost nothing remains ( in vain, I hope - I have these 25A traffic jams at my dacha, and there are brown old Soviet automatons in the house on every floor ).

Part 2. Modern materiel

In recent years, two more types of devices have appeared:

- protective voltage relay. This is a device that constantly looks at how many volts are in the network, and if more (or much less) than you need it will turn off.
- protection against arcing, AFCI - An arc-fault circuit interrupter

As I wrote in a non - existent labor dialogue - As a single-phase voltage relay, devices of different manufacturers can be used, for example, PH-113 from Novatek-Electro, UZM-51 from Meander, RV-32A from EKF, CM-EFS.2 from ABB, AZM-40A from Resanta, ZUBR D40t from DS Electronics and others like them.

But the equipment does not stand still - now the AFCI - An arc-fault circuit interrupter, protection against the occurrence of an electric arc, is practiced in the unspiritual west.

In the Russian Federation, these devices are described in GOST IEC 62606-2016 “Protection devices for household and similar purposes during arc breakdown” (in the non-spiritual west, these are the IEC 62606: 2013 + A1: 2017 norms for ).

In the Russian Federation, such devices (two in one) are produced by the Meander - Fire protection device against arc breakdown with the function of protection against voltage surges - MEANDR UZM-50MD or UZM-51MD - standard UHL4 performance (the difference with the UHL2 performance in operating temperature, UHL2 is for some extreme north).

ABB - Combination Arc Fault Circuit Interrupters (AFCIs) / Ground Fault Circuit Interrupters (GFCIs) also have this, for sure there is someone else. In the same meander there is an article with descriptions of "what's the competitors."

That's enough about theory, let's move on to practice.

Part 3. Input control and device of the modern panel

From all that has been written above, it turns out that in the panel there should be protection against the fact that there is a lot of electricity coming, and protection against the fact that there is not enough electricity. In addition, the ability to disable everything at once with one button should be maintained.

A modern plate with a DIN-rail did not escape the pernicious and smoldering effect of the west - instead of fuses (with a wound beetle), it became possible to put anything and make a big electrical panel, almost the size of a factory.

Why do you need a shield of this size, and why did two jams, or even automatic jams, be enough before?

There is nothing difficult in the answer. From somewhere around the mid-80s, with the rise in the height of construction in the apartments, gas stopped appearing (with replacement by electric stoves), therefore, 6 kilowatts, or about 25-30 amperes more, began to flow into the apartment. Input has become the norm for 40-50 amps, or 9-11 kilowatts. Especially for the famous mining expert Evgeny V. - these are 6-8 miners.

The consumed power began to grow, and it became possible to plug in an extension cord with a tee, and to power a fan heater, an iron, a warm lamp TV ... and all this in fact through a horseradish socket with aluminum wires on warm lamp twists in transfer boxes ... which, in combination with machines at 40A sometimes led to extremely interesting effects.

It also leads now - if you have one large difavtomat with a large leakage current at the input, then there are no guarantees that it will work as it should and when necessary.

If you enter one difavtomat with a low leakage current (and then it is diluted through ordinary machines) - that is, the risk of de-energizing the entire apartment, and then in the dark to go look for a flashlight, and then dig into the dashboard - not the most interesting thing.

Therefore, in my opinion, it is still better to separate the protection of the power lines in the direction kitchen-rooms-light-wet zone, so that a circuit or an overload or leak (for any reason) in one of the zones does not turn off the light everywhere.

Next we just need to count the required number of modules in the dashboard for an example with one room:

Diftautomat on group of sockets 1 in the room (the left side of the room)
Diftautomat on group of sockets 2 in the room (the right side of the room and the conditioner)
Diftautomat on group of sockets 1 in the kitchen
Diftautomat on group of sockets 2 in the kitchen (refrigerator)
Diftautomat per lighting group - 1
Diftautomat per lighting group - 2
Diftautomat on group of the sockets "other" (the storeroom, a hall)
Diftautomat on group of sockets in a bathroom (with leakage current 10 ma)

Total 8 difavtomatov. The dimension of one YES is 2 or 3 modules, so only 16-24 modules will go to such a simple scheme. Plus, you need a general input of one large automaton - 2 modules, plus the above-mentioned input control module and anti-arc modules - another 2 modules are typed in 24 cells, or 2 rows of 12. At least.

Plus plate, protected by a separate machine. In the past, psto in the comments wrote about this video with a real wiring electricians on a multi-room apartment - in my opinion, this is the correct example of "as it should."

Is it possible to do as the grandfathers did, even during the repair of the very rocking chair in Lyubertsy ? One machine (not even difavtomat) for all? Of course it is possible.

If necessary? A shield for 24 modules costs about 1000 rubles. Difavtomaty - from 2000 rubles a piece (approximately). Further you will decide whether it is necessary for you personally.

Part 4. A sad song about the sockets and the load on them

GOST ( 30849.1-2002 (IEC 60309-1: 1999) Plugs, receptacles and connectors for industrial use (Date of introduction 2014-01-01) and GOST 30851.2.2-2002
Electrical connectors for household and similar purposes. Part 2-2. Additional requirements for plugs and sockets for interconnection in devices and test methods indicate that the maximum current for plugs is 16 amperes, or 3.5 kilowatts at 220/230 volts.

But do some GOST can stop a specialist in everything from football to electricity? So we get that the “one for all and more” machine is placed at the input, and 2-3 extension cords are plugged into the socket without any protection. At the same time, extension cords are taken cheaper, with thinner wires, and at the output - first the heated wires, then as lucky.

However, an extension cord with overheating protection will not help here either - for example, for one year I had one such “pilot type” (although it was defender, sven, or sven, or a pilot) I burned with a regular 2 KW home heater - the switch contacts burned out .

In general, with these extension cords, eternal trouble - now I use including sven with “10 amps” marking - this is how a thermal switch flies out on it after half an hour of operation of a 1 kW heater, more simply from an iron.

Nevertheless, such octopus seven-outlet structures appear in those houses where during construction or repair they didn’t put enough sockets in a convenient place, and with them the risks of overheating of the entire cable increase.

In this case, the problem is not in the risks of a one-time load, in the end, modern technology consumes much less warm lamp ancestors. No, the risk arises precisely at long loads of one outlet through all sorts of tees (including the Soviet tee without an extension cord).

Maybe it is still worth laying a little more outlets during repairs and dividing the lines?

Part 5. Extinguishing systems for the home

To extinguish the fire, mankind has come up with many different ways. Unfortunately, some of them, for example, extinguishing with an atomic explosion ( Urta-Bulak , Pamuk, Torch, Crater), are difficult to adapt to use in apartment buildings.

Therefore, the house remains quenching powder, water, foam and carbon dioxide. Novec 1230 for home does not yet apply, sorry for the link to the site about the policy.

Leaving aside such a topic as standalone detectors and all sorts of kits from smart home and other systems with a GSM alert (even if the NAG writes about this), I will go straight to the systems.

The extinguishing system can be manual and automatic.

The manual system is powder (OP), foam (OHP-10 - decommissioned) and carbon dioxide (OU) fire extinguishers. You can also water from the basin.

Powder extinguishing.

100,500 species have been invented to extinguish. The main components of the simple and cheap - soda (sodium carbonate), salt (sodium chloride), and other minerals, up to fertilizer, chalk and sand. It even happens powder from silica gel.

Example:

PSB powders consist of the following components:

sodium bicarbonate - 94%;
crushed chalk - 4%;
aerosil (pyrogenic silicon dioxide) - 2%.

Pros: the powder is quite able to put out a small fire, or give you time for the most important thing - to escape.

Cons: furniture and household appliances powder hurts. Contact with eyes and lungs is not that useful, but rather harmful. OP fire extinguishers need maintenance - turn over a couple of times a quarter so that the powder does not block.

Water.

With the extinguishing of something in an apartment building with water, the situation is about nothing. It is IMPOSSIBLE to extinguish the burning oil in the pan (it is better and easier to cover it with something), to put a sprinkler system (hang an automatic shower in the room) is also not recommended, do not extinguish appliances under voltage with water from the water supply system.

Quenching foam.

In connection with the withdrawal from the work of OHP - not applicable.

Carbon dioxide quenching.

She's dry ice. Extremely useful thing in the house, only it doesn’t extinguish something well, but quite enough. However, it may help - for example, give time to escape, and / or wait for the arrival of the MOE.

Disadvantages: the outgoing gas is very cold, so it is better to practice in advance.

Autonomous systems.

In office space, automatic spraying systems are the most common. At home, this is quite difficult to do, and the neighbors may not be happy. Novec 1230 is not put home, as well as nitrogen or carbon dioxide systems, only the system with powder remains.

According to the experience of one acquaintance, the system is necessary and useful; it gives time to run away in pants and with documents (the alternative is to run without pants and documents).

Bottom line: in the matter of having a fire extinguisher at home, I fully agree with Comrade Bugaev, who is well-known in narrow circles - I need a fire extinguisher at home, so be it. OU-5, better OU-8 - quite suitable.

Part 6. Training in case of fire. All from our boat.

The main and most important thing in such an unpleasant situation is to be ready to face the fire, like the Soviet pioneer, or even as a sturmpionier. Training "what and how to do" should be carried out even at home, preferably with training checks of the type "what we are going to collect, where we are calling and how we run away."

Especially such training concerns children, and especially strongly - children in confined spaces, where there can be no fire safety at all. Schools, cinemas, shopping centers, subways - we live in a very technogenic world, where something constantly burns, smokes and so on.

Part 7. It's time to blame

Any fire in a residential building is dangerous not only because it burns, but also with smoke and panic. Modern plastics may not sustain combustion, but they create so much smoke that people just get lost - and that is not counting the lack of oxygen in the air. Fresh example.

Therefore, we must understand that to “run away through smoke and flames” you need an insulating gas mask or self-rescuer, plus a cape (fire-resistant fire-protection cape) plus a workout “how it works”.

Perhaps this whole kit will never be needed. It may be necessary - one of my friends is “lucky”, he had two different neighbors set fire twice, both times he had to run away. I myself encountered fires only five times - then it burned in the next house, then it burned in the next car, then everything around it burned in 2010 , but in the latter case, the chainsaw, radio, and work in an organized group helped much more.